Did you know that growing your first bonsai tree can start with just a $16.98 landscaping bush from your local garden center? Despite the common perception that bonsai is an expensive hobby, I’ve found that learning how to grow bonsai can be surprisingly affordable.
Unfortunately, the most common mistake beginners make isn’t about cost—it’s trying to keep outdoor plants indoors. This single error leads to countless bonsai failures due to inadequate humidity, light, and seasonal changes. When I first started exploring bonsai for beginners, I quickly learned that this living art form requires daily interaction and care. In fact, bonsai originated in China before spreading to Japan, carrying with it centuries of techniques that we can still apply today.
However, don’t let this discourage you! While growing a bonsai tree demands attention, it’s also forgiving in certain ways. For example, bonsai trees can actually stay in one pot for several years, and some species like the Prunus x Cistena can tolerate temperatures as low as -40 degrees Fahrenheit when properly maintained. Additionally, contrary to popular belief, bonsai don’t always need tiny pots—my first training box was 9 inches x 11 inches x 5.5 inches.
In this guide, I’ll walk you through how to start a bonsai tree the right way, sharing essential tips on how to create a bonsai tree that thrives rather than merely survives. Let’s get started!
Choose the Right Tree for Your First Bonsai
Selecting the right tree species is the foundation of bonsai success. Your first choice will significantly impact your bonsai journey, especially since different trees have vastly different care requirements.
Best beginner-friendly species
When starting your bonsai journey, focus on resilient species that forgive minor mistakes. The Chinese Elm stands out as an excellent first bonsai due to its vigorous branch and root growth. It’s remarkably easy to train and shape through clip-and-grow pruning techniques. Furthermore, Chinese Elms respond exceptionally well to pruning by producing new shoots wherever branches are cut back.
The Ficus deserves special attention as perhaps the most forgiving indoor bonsai. Primarily valued for its tolerance of low humidity and resilience, it thrives in typical home environments. If you’re concerned about remembering to water regularly, consider the Jade (Portulacaria afra). As a succulent, it stores water in its leaves, making it extraordinarily resistant to underwatering periods.
For outdoor enthusiasts, the Juniper represents an ideal starting point. Junipers are widely recognized in the bonsai world and provide excellent opportunities to practice wiring techniques:
- Their branches can be trained with wire and shaped into virtually any form
- The trunks can be manipulated with thicker wire to create natural movement
- They adapt well to different bonsai styles from formal upright to cascading forms
Other beginner-friendly options include Boxwoods, Olives, and Cotoneasters—all valued for their small leaves and response to pruning.
Indoor vs outdoor bonsai trees
The distinction between indoor and outdoor bonsai is crucial yet often misunderstood. Essentially, your selection must align with your living situation.
Indoor bonsai trees are specifically tropical or subtropical species that naturally thrive in warmer climates. These trees don’t require the seasonal dormancy period that temperate species need to survive. Popular indoor choices include Ficus, Jade, Hawaiian umbrella (Schefflera), Fukien tea (Carmona), and Sweet plum (Sageretia).
Outdoor bonsai, conversely, need exposure to natural elements and seasonal changes. Most notably, temperate trees require a winter dormancy period that simply cannot be replicated indoors. Common outdoor species include Junipers, Maples, Elms, Pines, and Ginkgo.
Michael Roberts, president of the Golden State Bonsai Federation, emphasizes this distinction: “The rule number one is that bonsai trees grow outdoors”. Consequently, if you live in an apartment without outdoor space, your options are limited to tropical species.
Where to buy your first bonsai
Dedicated bonsai nurseries generally offer the highest quality specimens, albeit at premium prices. Nevertheless, their specialized knowledge often justifies the investment for beginners seeking guidance.
Garden centers and big box stores occasionally offer viable starting material at lower price points. The average price range for beginner bonsai trees typically falls between $20 and $175. Among the most popular beginner options are the Hawaiian Umbrella and Chinese Elm, both with hundreds of positive customer reviews.
When shopping, prioritize health over aesthetics. Choose trees that show obvious vigor regardless of their current shape. For nursery stock, junipers generally offer better natural trunk movement than pines. Moreover, smaller container sizes (five-gallon vs. fifty-gallon) provide more manageable starting points for beginners.
Some experienced bonsai enthusiasts recommend purchasing two specimens of the same species initially. This approach prevents “overworking” a single tree—a common beginner mistake that often leads to tree mortality.
Gather the Tools and Materials
Preparing the right supplies marks the beginning of your bonsai journey. With proper tools and materials, you’ll set yourself up for success and avoid common pitfalls that discourage many beginners.
Essential tools for bonsai beginners
Quality tools make bonsai cultivation significantly easier, although you don’t need to invest in expensive Japanese carbon steel tools immediately. For your first bonsai, focus on these fundamentals:
- Pruning shears: These precise cutting tools allow you to trim foliage and smaller branches. Look for sharp, comfortable shears that can reach between branches.
- Concave cutters: Unlike regular pruners, these create indented cuts that heal without leaving swollen scars on your tree.
- Wire cutters: Specifically designed to remove training wire without damaging delicate branches.
- Root rake/hook: Essential during repotting to gently comb roots and remove old soil.
- Tweezers: Invaluable for detailed work like removing small buds or weeds from the pot.
Fortunately, most beginner-friendly starter kits include these basics. “The brain, fingers, and chopsticks are among the most important tools,” according to many experienced practitioners. Indeed, chopsticks are remarkably versatile for working with soil and roots without causing damage.
Choosing the right soil and pot
Bonsai soil differs fundamentally from regular potting soil, primarily because it requires excellent drainage while retaining enough moisture. Poor soil quality directly affects tree health and vigor, with compacted organic soils often leading to unhealthy trees.
The ideal bonsai soil mix includes:
- Akadama: A clay-like substance that retains water
- Pumice: Provides good substrate structure
- Lava rock: Enhances aeration and drainage
These components should be mixed in different ratios depending on your tree species. For deciduous trees, a mixture of 50% Akadama, 25% pumice, and 25% lava rock works well. Conifers and pines typically thrive in equal parts (33%) of each component.
For pots, ensure they have both drainage holes and wiring holes to secure the tree. Ceramic or porcelain “stoneware burned” pots are traditional choices, though plastic training pots work well for beginners. The pot depth should typically correspond to the thickness of the trunk just above the roots.
Wiring and drainage materials
Training wire allows you to shape your bonsai by guiding branch development. Two primary types are available:
Aluminum wire: Easier for beginners to handle, more malleable, and generally half the thickness of the branch you’re wiring. This is the recommended starting point if you’re new to bonsai.
Copper wire: Provides firmer hold through “work hardening” (strengthening as it’s applied), but requires more skill to use effectively. Many professionals prefer copper for its superior holding strength.
Drainage materials prevent waterlogging while promoting healthy root growth. Plastic mesh cut to fit your pot’s drainage holes allows water to escape while keeping soil in place. Some practitioners also add a layer of coarse material at the bottom of the pot to further enhance drainage.
Remember that while starter kits offer convenience, investing in quality individual components often provides better long-term results as your skills advance.
Step-by-Step: How to Start a Bonsai Tree
The transformation from ordinary plant to bonsai masterpiece involves four critical stages. Each step builds upon the previous one, creating a foundation for your tree’s health and artistic development.
Prepare the training pot or box
Training pots serve as temporary homes where your bonsai develops its initial shape and root system. Unlike decorative bonsai containers, these practical vessels prioritize functionality over aesthetics.
Firstly, select a pot with ample drainage holes. Cut drainage screens slightly larger than these holes to prevent soil escape while allowing water flow. Thereafter, create small wire loops to secure these screens in place. Push the wire ends through the drainage holes and bend them outward to anchor the screens firmly.
Next, prepare wiring for securing the tree. Cut pieces of 2mm wire approximately 1½ times the length of your pot. Thread these through the drainage holes in an “X” pattern, creating a foundation to anchor your tree’s roots securely.
Prune the roots and branches
Root pruning is essential for creating a compact, healthy bonsai. Begin by gently removing the plant from its nursery container. Carefully comb out the roots using a root hook, untangling them without causing excessive damage.
When trimming roots, primarily focus on reducing long, thick roots while preserving the finer white roots at the periphery—these actively absorb water and nutrients. As a general rule for beginners, avoid removing more than ⅔ of the total root mass.
Above ground, maintenance pruning controls growth and defines your tree’s shape. Remember that trees naturally grow with “apical dominance,” directing energy upward and outward. To counteract this, prune the top and outer portions more thoroughly, encouraging inner and lower growth.
Secure the tree with wiring
Position your tree in the pot, considering its most attractive angle. Subsequently, use the prepared anchor wires to secure the roots, twisting them over the root ball as close to the trunk as possible without damaging the nebari (visible surface roots).
For branch wiring, always work from stronger to weaker parts, typically bottom to top or inside to outside. Apply wire at approximately 45° angles—this provides optimal support while using less material. The wire should be firm but not tight enough to damage the bark.
Layer the soil and pot the tree
Begin with a shallow layer of bonsai soil mixture in the pot bottom. Position your tree, then fill around the roots with additional soil. Use a chopstick to poke the soil gently, eliminating air pockets that could damage roots.
Once potted, water thoroughly by placing the entire pot in water for about 30 minutes. This ensures even moisture distribution throughout the soil. Ultimately, you might add a decorative layer of gravel or sand to enhance appearance and help maintain surface moisture.
After completing these steps, place your newly potted bonsai in a sheltered location away from direct sunlight and strong winds for several weeks to recover.
Caring for Your Bonsai After Planting
After establishing your miniature tree, proper aftercare becomes crucial to its survival and development. Primarily, the difference between a thriving bonsai and a struggling one lies in consistent monitoring and appropriate response to its changing needs.
Watering schedule and techniques
Proper watering involves checking soil moisture rather than following a rigid schedule. I insert my finger about 2 inches into the soil—if it feels dry, it’s time to water. Another effective method is using a chopstick: place it 1 inch into the soil for 10 minutes; if it turns brown with clinging dirt, moisture is sufficient.
When watering, ensure thorough saturation. Water until it flows freely from drainage holes, guaranteeing the entire root mass receives hydration. For indoor bonsai with limited numbers, weekly soak saturation for 30 minutes works well.
Sunlight and placement tips
Most bonsai thrive outdoors with abundant light. Correspondingly, indoor bonsai typically require placement directly at south-facing windows where light intensity is highest. Moving them even a few feet away significantly reduces light, ultimately harming your tree.
Outdoor bonsai should be positioned where they receive ample sunlight but may benefit from afternoon shade in particularly hot regions. During winter, protect non-tropical species appropriately—garden sheds or garages offer good shelter.
When and how to fertilize
Fertilization schedules vary by species. Tropical and subtropical trees need weekly feeding during growing seasons and monthly feeding from fall through spring. Meanwhile, deciduous trees require weekly fertilization only during growing seasons, stopping when leaves fall. Conifers need weekly feeding during growing seasons and reduced feeding (once or twice monthly) during winter.
Importantly, never fertilize stressed, sick, newly repotted, or dehydrated trees. After repotting, wait 2-3 months before introducing fertilizer to prevent potential root burn.
Signs of stress to watch for
Watch for yellowing or wilting leaves, which can indicate either overwatering or underwatering. Leggy growth and unusually large leaves typically signal insufficient light. Moldy soil often suggests inadequate sunlight combined with excessive moisture.
Additionally, check beneath soil surface periodically—healthy roots mirror healthy top growth. If growth stops or leaves drop unseasonably, root problems may be developing.
Avoiding Common Beginner Mistakes
Success with bonsai comes not just from knowing what to do, but also understanding what to avoid. Mastering these common pitfalls will dramatically improve your chances of creating thriving miniature trees.
Overwatering and underwatering
Watering errors represent the most frequent cause of bonsai mortality. Overwatering leads to root rot, while underwatering causes dehydration that can kill your tree in mere days. Instead of following a rigid schedule, check if the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch before watering. Using a well-draining soil mix of inorganic components (Akadama, Pumice, and Lava rock) makes overwatering nearly impossible, yet still requires vigilance against underwatering. Always ensure your pot has proper drainage holes.
Using the wrong soil mix
Poor soil quality directly impacts tree health. Garden soil or regular potting compost quickly compacts, hindering proper aeration and drainage—two critical factors for bonsai success. Markedly, compacted organic soil that lacks structure will eventually cause root rot and kill your bonsai. The ideal mix combines Akadama for water retention, Pumice for structure, and Lava rock for aeration. Adjust ratios based on your climate: add more lava rock in wet environments or more Akadama if you cannot check your tree daily.
Skipping root pruning
Root pruning might seem counterintuitive, yet it’s essential for long-term bonsai health. Without periodic pruning, roots become bound and unable to absorb nutrients effectively—even with proper fertilization. Primarily, this leads to chlorosis (yellowing) and declining vigor. Root prune during dormancy (late fall or early spring) and never remove more than two-thirds of the roots at once.
Ignoring seasonal needs
Bonsai care changes with the seasons. During winter dormancy, reduce watering and fertilizing for temperate trees. Concurrently, protect them from extreme temperatures without exposing them to warm conditions that might break dormancy prematurely. For tropical species, maintain consistent care but adjust for reduced growth rates during cooler months.
Choosing the wrong species
Perhaps the most fundamental mistake is selecting a species unsuited for your environment. Tropical trees will struggle outdoors in cold climates, while temperate trees require winter dormancy impossible to achieve indoors. Consider your living situation first, then choose accordingly.
Conclusion
Growing your first bonsai tree represents a journey that combines artistry, patience, and botanical knowledge. Throughout this guide, we’ve explored essential aspects of bonsai cultivation that will help you avoid the frustration many beginners face. Certainly, understanding the distinction between indoor and outdoor species stands as the cornerstone of bonsai success. Your tree must match your living environment to thrive rather than merely survive.
The right tools, quality soil, and proper techniques form the foundation of healthy bonsai development. Remember that your bonsai requires daily attention—not necessarily hours of work, but consistent monitoring and care. This relationship with your tree becomes one of the most rewarding aspects of the hobby.
Watering remains the most critical yet challenging aspect of bonsai care. Therefore, learning to read your tree’s needs rather than following rigid schedules will significantly improve your chances of success. Additionally, recognizing signs of stress early allows you to address problems before they become fatal.
My journey with bonsai began much like yours might—with mistakes, learning, and eventually, small victories as my trees responded to proper care. Bonsai cultivation teaches patience unlike any other hobby. Your tree will develop gradually, revealing its character over months and years rather than days.
Last but not least, consider joining a local bonsai club or online community. Fellow enthusiasts can provide guidance specific to your climate and species. After all, bonsai is both a personal artistic expression and a tradition shared among practitioners worldwide.
The ancient art of bonsai offers a lifetime of learning and satisfaction. Though challenges will arise, the knowledge you’ve gained here provides a solid foundation for your first steps into this fascinating world. Your bonsai journey starts now—enjoy every moment of watching your miniature tree develop and thrive under your care!
FAQs
Q1. What are some beginner-friendly bonsai tree species? Some excellent beginner-friendly bonsai species include Chinese Elm, Ficus, Jade, Juniper, Boxwood, and Cotoneaster. These trees are generally more forgiving of minor mistakes and adapt well to bonsai techniques.
Q2. How often should I water my bonsai tree? Rather than following a rigid schedule, check if the top inch of soil feels dry before watering. Most bonsai trees need watering when the soil surface starts to feel dry, which could be daily or every few days depending on climate and species.